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When assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.